Thursday, December 24, 2009

BUZIOS THE BEAUTIFUL

December 21 - 27

We bought a pig in a poke and got a silk purse.

If you want a runaway week, come here. It is a little bit of the Mediteranean and feels like the Greek Islands or St. Tropaz! There is a miriad of bushes and flame trees in bloom with sweet scents in the air. Buzios is a peninsula,feels like an island, and is great for fishing, snorkeling, surfing, swimming, walking, suntanning and general lazing around.

We were picked up Monday a.m. by our interpreter Rakel, her 2 sons and their 2 friends, and our driver and headed to Buzios. Her boys had never been to Buzios and she planned to kill 2 birds with 1 stone. Our return trip will just be us, her and a driver.

It was a 2 1/2 hour drive through beautiful country and another 1 hour trying to find our hotel. It was worth the scavenger hunt as we landed in a pot of jam called the Posada Vila D'Este (www.viladeste.com.br) The photos don't do it justice.

This is a charming boutique hotel with 15 rooms that is built into the side of a hill overlooking Buzios Bay with two tiers of swimming pools (hot and cold) with jacuzzi and sauna, a wonderful dining room overlooking the bay and fantastic staff, not to mention outstanding food. Our roon is surrounded by beautiful flowering trees and a multitude of birds.

We are a 5 minute walk to the central part of town and a 15 minute walk to a wonderful little beach that sells great pina coladas, cerveja and grilled European sausage on a bun. We can also buy 600 ml of cold beer for 3 Reals which is about $2.

Buzios was a fishing village until Bridgitte Bardot came here in 1964. Although she never returned after 1969, the locals revere her memory as she put Buzios on the tourist map and the locals have memorialized her by naming many bars and streets after her. Today it is a popular resort. Since Punta del Este in Uruguay is getting so expensive, Buzios seems to be picking up as a destination stop. We have seen 7 cruise ships in our short stay...3 Royal Caribbean,2 MSC, 1 Ibero, and 1 french ship that holds 196 passengers and plies the water from B.A.to Venezuela.

We found an Argentinian restaurant called Don Juan and were fortunate that we were here for their Tuesday night Tango show. The steak was also great. In fact, their grilling methods are so good we went back for beef ribs which are cut totally differently than what we call beef ribs. You can spend as little or as much as you want for a meal and we have.

The Tango show was a bit of a disappointment as the place was so full of people, there was too little space for the dancers. The singer was good. Can someone tell us why all tango singers sound like Charles Azenouv?

Christmas in Brazil is very different from North America. Here, Carnival is the big deal. Except for an evangelical church with loudspeaker, there were few indications of the frenetic activity that marks N.A. We spent December 24 at our hotel. We started with a fantastic massage in the garden and then into the dining room for a mouth watering meal. We also tried the local lime drink called "caipirinha". Barb liked it once she got over the lime flavour, Lynne stuck with the cerveja. We are told the Dec. 24 family dinner is more important than Dec. 25. Some of the retail stores opened up about 3 pm on Dec 25 so the biggest thing going on for the 25th were the 2 cruise ships that came in. We got off the street and spent the day by our pools.

We added to our Portugese vocabulary such words as cocktail, happy hour and shopping not to mention garagem, Fordje and Fiatje. Like the French, the Brazilians like to make foreign words "Brazilian."

Another thing we noticed is all the dogs. They are everywhere and no one cleans up after them. Some people have 2 living with them in their apartments. So far we have only seen 1 cat.

There is a unique gift store in town that sells resin based art jewellery, evening bags and, would you believe - a bejewelled toilette seat?

We took a walk on the beach past the Centro commercial district and into a residential area where we noted a number of dwellings being rehabilitated. Lynne thinks they are or are being turned into boutique hotels and that this is an investment that will pay huge dividends in 5 years. It appears that the first properties to be snapped up are on or very near the waterfront near Centro. There are a lot of properties for sale and one would have to be careful not to make a costly mistake.

There is a surplus of commercial property and some look like they have been vacant for quite a few years. One former 2 storey restaurant facing the beach would probably make a great posada. A couple of guys from New York staying at the D'Este told us they walked past a vacant storefront and saw 2 dozen turkeys inside so we walked by in daylight....sure enough, 18 turkeys! Guess, some went for Xmas dinner and the rest probably will be a New Year's day feast.

This place is filling up fast with families coming in for New Year. It's out guess that all the decent places are fully booked.

We took an open air bus tour today and got a good look at several other popular spots on the peninsula. Many 5 star hotels, bays that specialize in snorkeling and a very tony and popular horseshoe shaped bay with the priciest homes in Buzios. Most of these locations we would find boring as without a car you are stranded. We are convinced we have the perfect location.

We plan to spend our last morning around the pools enjoying the view and are sorry to be leaving this delightful hotel but are looking forward to our next adventure.

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