Decemer 5
Our arrival here after 2 days at sea was a symphony of disasters, beaurocracy run amok and general frustration. Due to an outbreak of GIF on the ship, the Brazilian Medical Officer showed up and would not let anyone decamp until he checked all the passenges and crew who had been sick. This took about 5 hours. Finally, the Immigration Officers came on board to check Visas and passports and that took another 5 hours. We finally got off the ship at 5:30 pm and to our hotel by 6pm. At least we had a room waiting! Unfortunately one of Barb´s carry on bags was not with our stuff and she is suffering trying to figure out what was in the bag.
The Hotel Debret is a european hotel with all its pluses and minuses. They seem to be in the midst of a renovation project that will take years. When we went outside to look for the balcony rooms, we discovered that all the balconies had been removed and that side of the hotel restuccoed (but not the front facing the ocean). The dining room had a hole in the roof and so our breakfast is in a temporary room on the main floor. But the staff is accommodating. Our room for this first leg of our stay has a fabulous view directly overlooking the beach.
We are enjoying the atmosphere and walking along avenue Atlantica which fronts the ocean. Watched an indiginous band performing and selling CDs. Two of their group danced and you can certainly see they are cousins of the Cree. Their beading is lighter and brighter and the feather head dresses contain some of the colourful feathers that South American birds sport. They also included a pan pipe which make the sound very distinct and pleasant.
We are finally eating sensibly....and can barely do up our pants so have a lot of incentive to walk more and eat less.
We are leaving for Manaus in the Amazonus on Tuesday, December 8 and will keep everyone updated as time allows.
For some reason time is in short supply. Could be because we are having a fabulous time!
Sunday, December 6, 2009
BUENOS AIRIES, ARGENTINA
December 1
We arrived in Buenos Airies (fair winds in spanish) on a beautiful day. Come to think of it, we had generally cool weather until Montevideo. We had arranged to meet Monica and Augustina for lunch and decided we could walk through Calle Florida (the Rodeo Drive of South America) and into San Telmo to meet them. We walked for 3.5 hours and arrived early and thirsty. We sat down at an outdoor table under a tree and enjoyed a beer while waiting. A tour bus loaded with our ship passemgers drove by and we waved while they took pictures. I can just imagine someone developing their pictures and wondering ¨who are those old broads...they look like two women we saw on the ship!
We had a wonderful visit but our hostesses had to get back to work. They called a taxi for us and we journied on to Carmenito, the outdoor museum, in La Boca. We regretted our lack of time but managed to get back to San Telmo for a look around and walked back to H. Stern tograb their shuttle to the Port.
Our stay in B.A. was cut short as the ship had to leave several hours earlier than schedule on Dec. 2 and most of the passengers were quite annoyed as 1.5 days in B.A. is certainly not enough time.
It you are looking for a winter get away this is the city to shop in. You can buy a smallish pied a tiere here for about $18,000 US and fix it up for about half that again!
This is definitely a city to visit and stay a couple of weeks...maybe longer.
We left with regrets.
We arrived in Buenos Airies (fair winds in spanish) on a beautiful day. Come to think of it, we had generally cool weather until Montevideo. We had arranged to meet Monica and Augustina for lunch and decided we could walk through Calle Florida (the Rodeo Drive of South America) and into San Telmo to meet them. We walked for 3.5 hours and arrived early and thirsty. We sat down at an outdoor table under a tree and enjoyed a beer while waiting. A tour bus loaded with our ship passemgers drove by and we waved while they took pictures. I can just imagine someone developing their pictures and wondering ¨who are those old broads...they look like two women we saw on the ship!
We had a wonderful visit but our hostesses had to get back to work. They called a taxi for us and we journied on to Carmenito, the outdoor museum, in La Boca. We regretted our lack of time but managed to get back to San Telmo for a look around and walked back to H. Stern tograb their shuttle to the Port.
Our stay in B.A. was cut short as the ship had to leave several hours earlier than schedule on Dec. 2 and most of the passengers were quite annoyed as 1.5 days in B.A. is certainly not enough time.
It you are looking for a winter get away this is the city to shop in. You can buy a smallish pied a tiere here for about $18,000 US and fix it up for about half that again!
This is definitely a city to visit and stay a couple of weeks...maybe longer.
We left with regrets.
MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY
November 30
After 2 days at sea, we arrived in beautiful Montevideo. The portuguese numbered their discoveries and Mont refers to hills Vi is the number 6 and Deo is day...we discovered 6 hills today.
There are many lovely old buildings, modern skyscrapers and fabulous beaches not to mention 2 notable golf courses. The Uruguans are soccer mad and their team made it into the finals for the World Cup.
This is the first place since San Diego that we noted quite a few street people.
Jose Gurvich is a noted painter who originated here and we went to the museum set up by his widow. He died very young in New York preparing for an exhibit. His widow arranged for him to be buried in Israel and she brought his collection back to Montevideo for public viewing.
We spoke to many passengers who really loved the look and feel of this city including us.
After 2 days at sea, we arrived in beautiful Montevideo. The portuguese numbered their discoveries and Mont refers to hills Vi is the number 6 and Deo is day...we discovered 6 hills today.
There are many lovely old buildings, modern skyscrapers and fabulous beaches not to mention 2 notable golf courses. The Uruguans are soccer mad and their team made it into the finals for the World Cup.
This is the first place since San Diego that we noted quite a few street people.
Jose Gurvich is a noted painter who originated here and we went to the museum set up by his widow. He died very young in New York preparing for an exhibit. His widow arranged for him to be buried in Israel and she brought his collection back to Montevideo for public viewing.
We spoke to many passengers who really loved the look and feel of this city including us.
THE FOLLY OF THE FALKLANDS
November 27
After all our good luck on the seas, we really thought we would make Port Stanley. While we came and saw we could not land. In this, we joined 3 out of 4 cruisers who do not manage to land in the Falklands.
The captain had warned us the night before that the winds were 40 knots and they need to be less than 20 for us to tender in. The wind did not abate and it was bad timing on our part that we were not part of 199 passengers who got off as soon as we arrived and before the wind picked up. There were many other disappointed passengers who had planned to view old wrecks, wreckage of the war and penguins.
After all our good luck on the seas, we really thought we would make Port Stanley. While we came and saw we could not land. In this, we joined 3 out of 4 cruisers who do not manage to land in the Falklands.
The captain had warned us the night before that the winds were 40 knots and they need to be less than 20 for us to tender in. The wind did not abate and it was bad timing on our part that we were not part of 199 passengers who got off as soon as we arrived and before the wind picked up. There were many other disappointed passengers who had planned to view old wrecks, wreckage of the war and penguins.
ROUNDING CAPE HORN
November 26
After leaving Ushuaia, we headed toward Cape Horn. The ship had been installing emergency lighting for some time and we had visions of the crew lashing the outside doors shut with chains while we strapped into out beds trying not to hit the ceiling! It did not happen....no grand adventure at all as we rounded the Horn as the sea was smooth for this section of water. However, it was very windy on the decks for the picture takers.
Of all the famous mariners - Magellan, Sir Francis Drake, Cook and anyone else you can think of who had places named after them, it is La Maire and the Schouten brothers of the Netherlands who discovered and first sailed around this cape which they named after Hoorn, their city of origin.
After leaving Ushuaia, we headed toward Cape Horn. The ship had been installing emergency lighting for some time and we had visions of the crew lashing the outside doors shut with chains while we strapped into out beds trying not to hit the ceiling! It did not happen....no grand adventure at all as we rounded the Horn as the sea was smooth for this section of water. However, it was very windy on the decks for the picture takers.
Of all the famous mariners - Magellan, Sir Francis Drake, Cook and anyone else you can think of who had places named after them, it is La Maire and the Schouten brothers of the Netherlands who discovered and first sailed around this cape which they named after Hoorn, their city of origin.
USHUAIA, ARGENTINA
November 25
Ushuaia, 55 degrees latitude, is in Tiera del Fuego and while most of the mainland belongs to Chile, this town is in Argentina. It has a sort of Alpine/Wild West atmosphere. The average winter temperature is about 5 but nearly 70% of the time there are winds blowing. The locals wear ski jackets and jeans and drive 4x4s. You cannot tell the big wigs from the small fries by the way they dress. The indegenous people, the Yahgan and Alaculufes (Canoe Indias), wore little or no clothes at all and kept warm from the constant fires they built. Wow!
The seas were very rough and it looked for a while like we would not be able to land. However, the captain managed when the winds fell below 20 knots. The town is very hilly and is a popular hunting and fishing destination.
On our way back from touring the city we walked into an H. Stern Jewellry store so Barb could drool. As we left the shop Barb told the sales rep she was very sorry but ¨I can´t afford me¨.
Ushuaia, 55 degrees latitude, is in Tiera del Fuego and while most of the mainland belongs to Chile, this town is in Argentina. It has a sort of Alpine/Wild West atmosphere. The average winter temperature is about 5 but nearly 70% of the time there are winds blowing. The locals wear ski jackets and jeans and drive 4x4s. You cannot tell the big wigs from the small fries by the way they dress. The indegenous people, the Yahgan and Alaculufes (Canoe Indias), wore little or no clothes at all and kept warm from the constant fires they built. Wow!
The seas were very rough and it looked for a while like we would not be able to land. However, the captain managed when the winds fell below 20 knots. The town is very hilly and is a popular hunting and fishing destination.
On our way back from touring the city we walked into an H. Stern Jewellry store so Barb could drool. As we left the shop Barb told the sales rep she was very sorry but ¨I can´t afford me¨.
IN THE WAKE OF CHARLES DARWIN
November 24
Still in Punta Arenas: went to a beautiful old mansion that the Braun-Menendez family donated to the City and has been turned into a museum. The furniture is lovely French Provincial stuff. It was surprising to see it in the middle of nowhere! This museum reminded both of us of the Biltmore House in Ashville, North Carolina. There were some people who made a great deal of money in this part of the world.
On leaving Puna Arenas we backed down the Strait of Magellan into the Beagle Channel. This was a stark, icily beautiful channel with tidewater glaciers to the east. There are five named glaciers that very, very blue. There were no birds visible and the glaciers are calving into the channel. We sat in the Crowsnest Lounge which has a 210 degree view. It stretches the mind to try and imagine the Beagle sailing through this channel in its exploratory voyage nearly 200 years ago.
Still in Punta Arenas: went to a beautiful old mansion that the Braun-Menendez family donated to the City and has been turned into a museum. The furniture is lovely French Provincial stuff. It was surprising to see it in the middle of nowhere! This museum reminded both of us of the Biltmore House in Ashville, North Carolina. There were some people who made a great deal of money in this part of the world.
On leaving Puna Arenas we backed down the Strait of Magellan into the Beagle Channel. This was a stark, icily beautiful channel with tidewater glaciers to the east. There are five named glaciers that very, very blue. There were no birds visible and the glaciers are calving into the channel. We sat in the Crowsnest Lounge which has a 210 degree view. It stretches the mind to try and imagine the Beagle sailing through this channel in its exploratory voyage nearly 200 years ago.
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