November 27
After all our good luck on the seas, we really thought we would make Port Stanley. While we came and saw we could not land. In this, we joined 3 out of 4 cruisers who do not manage to land in the Falklands.
The captain had warned us the night before that the winds were 40 knots and they need to be less than 20 for us to tender in. The wind did not abate and it was bad timing on our part that we were not part of 199 passengers who got off as soon as we arrived and before the wind picked up. There were many other disappointed passengers who had planned to view old wrecks, wreckage of the war and penguins.
Sunday, December 6, 2009
ROUNDING CAPE HORN
November 26
After leaving Ushuaia, we headed toward Cape Horn. The ship had been installing emergency lighting for some time and we had visions of the crew lashing the outside doors shut with chains while we strapped into out beds trying not to hit the ceiling! It did not happen....no grand adventure at all as we rounded the Horn as the sea was smooth for this section of water. However, it was very windy on the decks for the picture takers.
Of all the famous mariners - Magellan, Sir Francis Drake, Cook and anyone else you can think of who had places named after them, it is La Maire and the Schouten brothers of the Netherlands who discovered and first sailed around this cape which they named after Hoorn, their city of origin.
After leaving Ushuaia, we headed toward Cape Horn. The ship had been installing emergency lighting for some time and we had visions of the crew lashing the outside doors shut with chains while we strapped into out beds trying not to hit the ceiling! It did not happen....no grand adventure at all as we rounded the Horn as the sea was smooth for this section of water. However, it was very windy on the decks for the picture takers.
Of all the famous mariners - Magellan, Sir Francis Drake, Cook and anyone else you can think of who had places named after them, it is La Maire and the Schouten brothers of the Netherlands who discovered and first sailed around this cape which they named after Hoorn, their city of origin.
USHUAIA, ARGENTINA
November 25
Ushuaia, 55 degrees latitude, is in Tiera del Fuego and while most of the mainland belongs to Chile, this town is in Argentina. It has a sort of Alpine/Wild West atmosphere. The average winter temperature is about 5 but nearly 70% of the time there are winds blowing. The locals wear ski jackets and jeans and drive 4x4s. You cannot tell the big wigs from the small fries by the way they dress. The indegenous people, the Yahgan and Alaculufes (Canoe Indias), wore little or no clothes at all and kept warm from the constant fires they built. Wow!
The seas were very rough and it looked for a while like we would not be able to land. However, the captain managed when the winds fell below 20 knots. The town is very hilly and is a popular hunting and fishing destination.
On our way back from touring the city we walked into an H. Stern Jewellry store so Barb could drool. As we left the shop Barb told the sales rep she was very sorry but ¨I can´t afford me¨.
Ushuaia, 55 degrees latitude, is in Tiera del Fuego and while most of the mainland belongs to Chile, this town is in Argentina. It has a sort of Alpine/Wild West atmosphere. The average winter temperature is about 5 but nearly 70% of the time there are winds blowing. The locals wear ski jackets and jeans and drive 4x4s. You cannot tell the big wigs from the small fries by the way they dress. The indegenous people, the Yahgan and Alaculufes (Canoe Indias), wore little or no clothes at all and kept warm from the constant fires they built. Wow!
The seas were very rough and it looked for a while like we would not be able to land. However, the captain managed when the winds fell below 20 knots. The town is very hilly and is a popular hunting and fishing destination.
On our way back from touring the city we walked into an H. Stern Jewellry store so Barb could drool. As we left the shop Barb told the sales rep she was very sorry but ¨I can´t afford me¨.
IN THE WAKE OF CHARLES DARWIN
November 24
Still in Punta Arenas: went to a beautiful old mansion that the Braun-Menendez family donated to the City and has been turned into a museum. The furniture is lovely French Provincial stuff. It was surprising to see it in the middle of nowhere! This museum reminded both of us of the Biltmore House in Ashville, North Carolina. There were some people who made a great deal of money in this part of the world.
On leaving Puna Arenas we backed down the Strait of Magellan into the Beagle Channel. This was a stark, icily beautiful channel with tidewater glaciers to the east. There are five named glaciers that very, very blue. There were no birds visible and the glaciers are calving into the channel. We sat in the Crowsnest Lounge which has a 210 degree view. It stretches the mind to try and imagine the Beagle sailing through this channel in its exploratory voyage nearly 200 years ago.
Still in Punta Arenas: went to a beautiful old mansion that the Braun-Menendez family donated to the City and has been turned into a museum. The furniture is lovely French Provincial stuff. It was surprising to see it in the middle of nowhere! This museum reminded both of us of the Biltmore House in Ashville, North Carolina. There were some people who made a great deal of money in this part of the world.
On leaving Puna Arenas we backed down the Strait of Magellan into the Beagle Channel. This was a stark, icily beautiful channel with tidewater glaciers to the east. There are five named glaciers that very, very blue. There were no birds visible and the glaciers are calving into the channel. We sat in the Crowsnest Lounge which has a 210 degree view. It stretches the mind to try and imagine the Beagle sailing through this channel in its exploratory voyage nearly 200 years ago.
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
UNSEEN BY MILLIONS
We are really enjoying this cruise. There are many very nice people and we have been fortunate in meeting a great many of them. We have an entertaining dinner table ensemble and are surprised by how many Albertans and Canadians are on board for the full 35 days. As everyone knows, Canadians like value for our money!
Our entertainers are total unknowns to us but many are excellent and make a living on the cruise ship circuit. They come from Australia, UK, Europe, USA etc. and we have missed very few evening performances.
We must confess - we have yet to see the midnight sky! What is it about heading south of the equator that exhausts us by 9 pm?
We must admit that our knowledge of geography was abysmal!! Do look up a proper map of Chile and take a good look at the southern tip. We have been sailing through some very complicated scenery - fjiords, islands, narrow channels that are all part of Chile.
By the way, Punta Arenas is somewhat further south (they claim) than Ushuaia, Argentina where we are headed next and which everyone assums is the most southerly city in South America.
Our entertainers are total unknowns to us but many are excellent and make a living on the cruise ship circuit. They come from Australia, UK, Europe, USA etc. and we have missed very few evening performances.
We must confess - we have yet to see the midnight sky! What is it about heading south of the equator that exhausts us by 9 pm?
We must admit that our knowledge of geography was abysmal!! Do look up a proper map of Chile and take a good look at the southern tip. We have been sailing through some very complicated scenery - fjiords, islands, narrow channels that are all part of Chile.
By the way, Punta Arenas is somewhat further south (they claim) than Ushuaia, Argentina where we are headed next and which everyone assums is the most southerly city in South America.
CHILE
COQUIMBO/LA SERENA
Wednesday, Nov. 18
After two days at sea we arrived at the first of 3 stops in Chile. We decided not to do an organized tour and took the local bus for $1 US each way to La Serena which is about 8 km away from the port. The bus driver was very helpful and made sure we knew which bus to take home. We had lots of help from non-English speakers.
La Serena is a popular holiday destination for Chileans.
We did not find our internet cafe or a salon for a pedicure and manicure, but did walk through a lovely park with a jazz band playing great music. There was the usual local market.
We are now into wearing warmer clothes as the temperature is dropping the farther south we go. Small cities, but clean. Coquimbo has these great winding sidewalks going up the hills.
We are struggling with our Spanish as few of the locals speak English, as it should be, as we are visiting them. Very surprised that the ship is not offering Spanish lessons and Barb´s books are still in her suitcase.
This is the point when we realized that the days were getting longer.
VALPARISO/SANTIAGO
Thursday, November 19
This was the off and on city for the cruise. The end for those that got on in San Diego and the start for the second part of our adventure for the ¨newbies¨. 600 people took the entire 35 day cruise!
Again, we decided not to do an oganized tour and grabbed a cab to the Plaza Sotomayor in the town centre. We walked around and discovered towering hills, a maze of winding streets and alleys, sloping staircases and funiculars. We took a funicular built in 1883 to the top of Concepcion, the historic centre which overlooked the city. What a view. We later discovered this is another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
There are 15 ascensors (funicular) connecting the shore with the hillside residential areas. Some are in very poor condition and American Express has provided a cash grant to help maintain them.
From there we realized the port was very close and decided to walk back. We desparately needed to walk as our great plans to eat less and walk more were not becoming a reality. The walk was around 40 minutes which was fine with us. When we got back to the ship we realized that if the railroad was not directly in front of the port we could have walked into town.
November 20 and a very rough day at sea. Barb actually had to take a gravol.
PUERTO MONTT
November 21
This is a large fishing port but we took a tour to two cities created by the German settlers which are situated on Lago Llanquihue (Lake Yang-kee-way). Puerto Varas..City of Roses and Frutillar..little black forest. It was quite cold but lovely and definitely tourist places. Beautiful hotels on the lake with wonderful restaurants and a casino. Many people come here for vacation. Actually, there is a growing internationa classical music competition in Frutillar with a large new music hall being built on the lake and blocking the view of all sorts of local people.
The tour said 4 hours but by the time we got off the ship, were tendered into port, boarded the bus, etc., etc., etc., we actually only had about 20 minutes in each city. That didn´t give us much time to really see much, but we enjoyed what we saw. We did have time for apple kuchen and coffee. We also picked up a bottle of the local liquor--Pisco Sour--which is not lasting as long as it should.
Pisco Sour is claimed as the national drink of Peru. Pisco Sour is claimed as the national drink of Chile. Peru and Chile fought a war in 1941 - do you think it was over Pisco Sour?
Nov. 22 and 23 - 2 days at sea cruising through Darwin´s Channell, the Chilean Fiords and early on the 24ths cruising up the Straight of Magellan into Punta Arenas, the Capital of Patagonia.
We headed up the the Amelia Glacier on Nov. 23. WOW, just like Alberta in the winter... snow, ice and sunshine only not quite as spectacular as our Rockies, but then what can compare to those peaks. This part of the cruise is the South American version of the Alaska Cruise.
Today we are on our own again strolling through PUNTA AREANAS. We finally got our manicure and pedicure, found the internet and when done, we are off to....you guessed it...eat.
Barb finally broke down and bought a lovely alpaca cardigan - the first time !
Having a great time. It is turning into a real education as one realizes the world is upside down.
Every once in a while we stumble on an english speaker but we are managing to communicate anyway.
Wednesday, Nov. 18
After two days at sea we arrived at the first of 3 stops in Chile. We decided not to do an organized tour and took the local bus for $1 US each way to La Serena which is about 8 km away from the port. The bus driver was very helpful and made sure we knew which bus to take home. We had lots of help from non-English speakers.
La Serena is a popular holiday destination for Chileans.
We did not find our internet cafe or a salon for a pedicure and manicure, but did walk through a lovely park with a jazz band playing great music. There was the usual local market.
We are now into wearing warmer clothes as the temperature is dropping the farther south we go. Small cities, but clean. Coquimbo has these great winding sidewalks going up the hills.
We are struggling with our Spanish as few of the locals speak English, as it should be, as we are visiting them. Very surprised that the ship is not offering Spanish lessons and Barb´s books are still in her suitcase.
This is the point when we realized that the days were getting longer.
VALPARISO/SANTIAGO
Thursday, November 19
This was the off and on city for the cruise. The end for those that got on in San Diego and the start for the second part of our adventure for the ¨newbies¨. 600 people took the entire 35 day cruise!
Again, we decided not to do an oganized tour and grabbed a cab to the Plaza Sotomayor in the town centre. We walked around and discovered towering hills, a maze of winding streets and alleys, sloping staircases and funiculars. We took a funicular built in 1883 to the top of Concepcion, the historic centre which overlooked the city. What a view. We later discovered this is another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
There are 15 ascensors (funicular) connecting the shore with the hillside residential areas. Some are in very poor condition and American Express has provided a cash grant to help maintain them.
From there we realized the port was very close and decided to walk back. We desparately needed to walk as our great plans to eat less and walk more were not becoming a reality. The walk was around 40 minutes which was fine with us. When we got back to the ship we realized that if the railroad was not directly in front of the port we could have walked into town.
November 20 and a very rough day at sea. Barb actually had to take a gravol.
PUERTO MONTT
November 21
This is a large fishing port but we took a tour to two cities created by the German settlers which are situated on Lago Llanquihue (Lake Yang-kee-way). Puerto Varas..City of Roses and Frutillar..little black forest. It was quite cold but lovely and definitely tourist places. Beautiful hotels on the lake with wonderful restaurants and a casino. Many people come here for vacation. Actually, there is a growing internationa classical music competition in Frutillar with a large new music hall being built on the lake and blocking the view of all sorts of local people.
The tour said 4 hours but by the time we got off the ship, were tendered into port, boarded the bus, etc., etc., etc., we actually only had about 20 minutes in each city. That didn´t give us much time to really see much, but we enjoyed what we saw. We did have time for apple kuchen and coffee. We also picked up a bottle of the local liquor--Pisco Sour--which is not lasting as long as it should.
Pisco Sour is claimed as the national drink of Peru. Pisco Sour is claimed as the national drink of Chile. Peru and Chile fought a war in 1941 - do you think it was over Pisco Sour?
Nov. 22 and 23 - 2 days at sea cruising through Darwin´s Channell, the Chilean Fiords and early on the 24ths cruising up the Straight of Magellan into Punta Arenas, the Capital of Patagonia.
We headed up the the Amelia Glacier on Nov. 23. WOW, just like Alberta in the winter... snow, ice and sunshine only not quite as spectacular as our Rockies, but then what can compare to those peaks. This part of the cruise is the South American version of the Alaska Cruise.
Today we are on our own again strolling through PUNTA AREANAS. We finally got our manicure and pedicure, found the internet and when done, we are off to....you guessed it...eat.
Barb finally broke down and bought a lovely alpaca cardigan - the first time !
Having a great time. It is turning into a real education as one realizes the world is upside down.
Every once in a while we stumble on an english speaker but we are managing to communicate anyway.
Thursday, November 19, 2009
CALLO/LIMA
On November 14 we arrived in Callo but decided to stay on board ship until Sunday when we took the shuttle into Lima and into Miraflores. We took one look and knew we would be very happy here when we return in January.
The ride in gave us a chance to see a lot of the shore line. The shops were closed but on the way back we noticed a shopping centre in a town between the port and Lima which was open. Apparently, many shops open after church.
Callao was established in 1537 to transship items looted from the Inca and is still a major port.
We will post more info upon our return.
The ride in gave us a chance to see a lot of the shore line. The shops were closed but on the way back we noticed a shopping centre in a town between the port and Lima which was open. Apparently, many shops open after church.
Callao was established in 1537 to transship items looted from the Inca and is still a major port.
We will post more info upon our return.
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