PUERTO SALAVERRY/TRUJILLO - Nvember 13
This was the resting place along the Spaniards route between Lima and Quito.
We took a terrific tour to several archaeological sites that they are just starting to promote. They started with a few thousand visiters per year and are now up to about 300,000 annually.
The first temples we saw were built by the Moche Indians were abandoned the site about 1300 AD before the Inca Empire. The Huacas del Sol is the largest preColumbian structure in the Americas and was the administrative headquarters. The Temples of the Moon and Sun are aged to around 600 BC. They are still digging and uncovering. It took 140 million mud bricks tol build the Temple of the Sun. Because of the location of the Temple of the Moon, the original coloured wall paintings, etc. are still intact. The temple is around 5 stories high.
We then took off to Chan Chan another fantastic UNESCO World Heritage Site and consists of 9 governors palaces and 35 intermediary complexes. This was a town of around 35,000 with the Palace being the centre of everything. They are still trying to uncover areas and in some rooms they have duplicated the scultures and are covering the originals to save them. This palace was built as a maze.
From there, we went..you guessed it....to eat. They took us to Huanchaco a beautiful seaside town known for surfing and where we had a fabulous buffet of fish, veggies, breads and local beer. The restaurant was beautiful, the view delightful, the food excellent.
The sea was rough at this time of year and the waves were terrific to see. Some of the fishermen still use their reed boats which they handmake themselves. They last around 2 or 3 months and then they are too waterlogged to use.
It was a wonderful day and warm enough to not need our jackets.
Thursday, November 19, 2009
MANTA, ECUADOR
So, what do you think the temperature was in Ecuado...35C maybe...guess again. We landed in Manta on November 11 and found ourself in 16C temps. We were cold. It turns out that the average temperature in the coastal region of Ecuador is 20C all year round.
The Humbolt current touches against Ecuador and northern Peru which brings cooler temps and lots of fish. We vaguely remember this from school but that was so many decades ago that we do not care to go that far back.
We were unpleasantly surprised to find the ship failed to commemorate November 11 rememberance day as there were many veterans from Canada, Britain, Australia and the USA on board. They tried to make up for it the next day but after the fact is never timely.
We took a tour here and found out that Panama Hats originated in Ecuador and because they were sold to the Panama Canal engineers they became known as Panama Hats. If we were not off and on a 3 month jaunt, we would have purchased one each.
On the way to the hat market the bus got stopped by a religious procession and he backedthe bus up on a steep hill. Great drivers here.
Ecuador is very poor but they are much better off than most of Central America. They are workingvery hard at trying to develop environmentally sensitive industries besides fishing and flowers which they ship all over the world. One is vegetable ivory from Tagua pronounced Towa. This is from the same plant as tequilla but a different variety. They dry the flower pods for 2 months and then slice it into discs from which they make buttons and sell to the Chinese. They also carve from it such things as small birds, animals, jewellery etc.
On our way back to the ship, we spotted many monuments to the tuna and our favourite was a large scuplure in the middle of a traffic circle which Barb dubbed ODE TO A TUNA
There was a tour to Quito, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but it was cancelled due to the plane requiring servicing. How on earth do you not service a chartered plane.....
The Humbolt current touches against Ecuador and northern Peru which brings cooler temps and lots of fish. We vaguely remember this from school but that was so many decades ago that we do not care to go that far back.
We were unpleasantly surprised to find the ship failed to commemorate November 11 rememberance day as there were many veterans from Canada, Britain, Australia and the USA on board. They tried to make up for it the next day but after the fact is never timely.
We took a tour here and found out that Panama Hats originated in Ecuador and because they were sold to the Panama Canal engineers they became known as Panama Hats. If we were not off and on a 3 month jaunt, we would have purchased one each.
On the way to the hat market the bus got stopped by a religious procession and he backedthe bus up on a steep hill. Great drivers here.
Ecuador is very poor but they are much better off than most of Central America. They are workingvery hard at trying to develop environmentally sensitive industries besides fishing and flowers which they ship all over the world. One is vegetable ivory from Tagua pronounced Towa. This is from the same plant as tequilla but a different variety. They dry the flower pods for 2 months and then slice it into discs from which they make buttons and sell to the Chinese. They also carve from it such things as small birds, animals, jewellery etc.
On our way back to the ship, we spotted many monuments to the tuna and our favourite was a large scuplure in the middle of a traffic circle which Barb dubbed ODE TO A TUNA
There was a tour to Quito, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but it was cancelled due to the plane requiring servicing. How on earth do you not service a chartered plane.....
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
CENTRAL AMERICA
The Bridge from where we were to where we are going.
We left Mexico and headed into rough waters because of the winds coming into the Pacific Ocean from the Caribbean side.
Prior to landing on Saturday, Nov. 7 in PUERTO QUETZAL, GUATEMALA we had planned to do independent touring. However, after hearing that the 3 central american countries we were headed to were working ports, we signed up for a tour to ANTIGUA, a World Heritage Site established by the Spaniards in 1570. The city of Antigua is wonderfully preserved with many excellent restaurants (Lynne satisfied her urge to taste Mole.)
Guatemala obtained independence from Mexico in 1823 and in 1906 the United Fruit Company established the first banana plantations. In 1952, the government distributed private land to landless peasants. In 1992, Guatemala President, Rigoberta Menchu was award the Nobel Peace Price for human rights works.
The country is obviously very poor but amazingly, houses in Antigua can sell for $1,000 /M2!
We went to a jade factory established by an American woman in the 1960´s when no one in the world thought there were jade deposits in the country...including the government! Didn´t she prove everyone wrong and does not hesitate to say so.
Our tour guide was born in Antigua spent some time in the USA but returned to her homeland at about 9 years of age. When she relearned English, she spoke with no accent! She was very knowlegable and we enjoyed her very much.
CORINTO, NICARAGUA was our next port of call. This part of central america was inhabited by the Niquirano people, influenced by the Aztecs, and were unified in small clan-based groups. Columbus made a brief visit to the Moskito Coast in 1502. The conquistadors subjegated the local people a few decades later. The Amerindians were enslaved and the Spanish built a grand colonial city at Leon.
We signed up for a tour which turned out to be NOT what we thought. While disappointed in the tour, the tour guide was passionate about his country which is the poorest of them all.
PUNTARENAS, COSTA RICA was our last central american stop. We were supposed to go to PUERTO CALDERA but were rerouted to Puntarenas. What a beautiful country! It is so obviously doing much better than the others that we asked the tour guide why. She said that when they obtained independence, their first president was a teacher and not a military dictator and that made all the difference. We were again fortunate with our wonderful tour guide whose English was teriffic and pride in country was evident. We stopped at a wonderful factory in Sarchi that produces painted oxcarts. The company dates back to 1903 and provides a distinctive indigineous industry. They ship these carts, in sizes from patio planters and bars to fidge magnets.
In 1502 Christopher Columbus anchors, in 1506 Spain began to colonize and 1821, Costa Rica gained its independence. The first president was elected in 1824 and he established fair courts, expanded education and coffee plantations. In 1890, he made a deal with the United Fruit Company to build a railroad and in exchange gave them a 99 years lease on the land bordering the rail lines to grow bananas.
VOLCANOES. There is a lot of volcanic activity throughout central america and from time to time it has devestated these countries. It takes a lot of time to rebuild after these disasters. Nevertheless, they do.
We had a wonderful Neptune Ceremony yesterday for passing the equator. The crew put on a fabulous ¨Kiss the Fish¨performance and the Lido deck was absoluted crowded with passengers. Some dedicated souls played bridge and refused to come on deck...what sour pusses!
We are looking forward to our next ports of call and will fill you in as we find Internet access.
We left Mexico and headed into rough waters because of the winds coming into the Pacific Ocean from the Caribbean side.
Prior to landing on Saturday, Nov. 7 in PUERTO QUETZAL, GUATEMALA we had planned to do independent touring. However, after hearing that the 3 central american countries we were headed to were working ports, we signed up for a tour to ANTIGUA, a World Heritage Site established by the Spaniards in 1570. The city of Antigua is wonderfully preserved with many excellent restaurants (Lynne satisfied her urge to taste Mole.)
Guatemala obtained independence from Mexico in 1823 and in 1906 the United Fruit Company established the first banana plantations. In 1952, the government distributed private land to landless peasants. In 1992, Guatemala President, Rigoberta Menchu was award the Nobel Peace Price for human rights works.
The country is obviously very poor but amazingly, houses in Antigua can sell for $1,000 /M2!
We went to a jade factory established by an American woman in the 1960´s when no one in the world thought there were jade deposits in the country...including the government! Didn´t she prove everyone wrong and does not hesitate to say so.
Our tour guide was born in Antigua spent some time in the USA but returned to her homeland at about 9 years of age. When she relearned English, she spoke with no accent! She was very knowlegable and we enjoyed her very much.
CORINTO, NICARAGUA was our next port of call. This part of central america was inhabited by the Niquirano people, influenced by the Aztecs, and were unified in small clan-based groups. Columbus made a brief visit to the Moskito Coast in 1502. The conquistadors subjegated the local people a few decades later. The Amerindians were enslaved and the Spanish built a grand colonial city at Leon.
We signed up for a tour which turned out to be NOT what we thought. While disappointed in the tour, the tour guide was passionate about his country which is the poorest of them all.
PUNTARENAS, COSTA RICA was our last central american stop. We were supposed to go to PUERTO CALDERA but were rerouted to Puntarenas. What a beautiful country! It is so obviously doing much better than the others that we asked the tour guide why. She said that when they obtained independence, their first president was a teacher and not a military dictator and that made all the difference. We were again fortunate with our wonderful tour guide whose English was teriffic and pride in country was evident. We stopped at a wonderful factory in Sarchi that produces painted oxcarts. The company dates back to 1903 and provides a distinctive indigineous industry. They ship these carts, in sizes from patio planters and bars to fidge magnets.
In 1502 Christopher Columbus anchors, in 1506 Spain began to colonize and 1821, Costa Rica gained its independence. The first president was elected in 1824 and he established fair courts, expanded education and coffee plantations. In 1890, he made a deal with the United Fruit Company to build a railroad and in exchange gave them a 99 years lease on the land bordering the rail lines to grow bananas.
VOLCANOES. There is a lot of volcanic activity throughout central america and from time to time it has devestated these countries. It takes a lot of time to rebuild after these disasters. Nevertheless, they do.
We had a wonderful Neptune Ceremony yesterday for passing the equator. The crew put on a fabulous ¨Kiss the Fish¨performance and the Lido deck was absoluted crowded with passengers. Some dedicated souls played bridge and refused to come on deck...what sour pusses!
We are looking forward to our next ports of call and will fill you in as we find Internet access.
Sunday, November 8, 2009
ADIOS MEXICO
ZIHUATANEJO-IXTAPA
We arrived November 4 and walked into Zihuatanejo. Loved this town. It is a real Mexican community with real people and stores that cater to the locals as well as tourists. Nice atmosphere and definitely a go-to place. The beach is right by town and we stopped for a beer and chips in a restaurant with a lovely interior garden. Took photos and if either of us could figure out how to drop a photo into this blog directly from our cameras, we would do so! Did not bother to go to Ixtapa which is only a 50 cent bus ride away as Barb had been there before and Lynne´s theory is that one big American resort is like another and you cannot tell where in the world you are when you are in one!
We recommend this place for a winter vacation.
ACAPULCO
Next stop, next day, was Acapulco....eugh! 2,000,000 people, 3,000,000 cars and all on the road at once! Big plans to double the population in the next decade or so and many very expensive vacation homes built and planned.
We went to TEHUACALCO RUINS - a wonderful tour. The Mexican government decided to fund the archeological dig in 2002 and it opened to the public in 2008. It was a 1.5 hour ride each way. The scenery was lovely and over a brand new toll highway. We climbed to 1500 metres and it was a good thing we were in a small van as no bus could navigate the turns into the ruins.
The ruins total 65 acres but only 10% has been excavated. We saw their sacred ball court, two ritual pyramids and the plaza where the ordinary people congregated. The guide showed us glyphs carved into a large rock which were the Mayan calendar based on the moon. Barb climbed to the very top and then discovered she had to go down sideways! The steps are narrow because you go up and down sidways as it not allowed to face either forward or backward from the Gods. This tour was marked average but it was strenuous and several people were not able to climb the 75 stairs at the entry. Well worth the time and effort.
HUATULCO (pronounced watelco)
November 6 and we docked right at the most beautiful beach!. We walked around on our own and took a $2 taxi ride up into the town. It was very clean with a nice park in the centre. Checked out a couple of hotels at $20 night and up - monthly rates negotiable - and decided that the Canada Hotel by the beach looked pretty good to us!
We had breakfast of beer and nachos at 9 am under a palapa on the beach and followed up with $1 foot massage. Barb actually went into the ocean and the water was wonderful - she says! This resort is being developed with the ecology in mind and looks like it will be another go-to place for a winter break.
Next stop Guatamala and we will post whenever we can find an internet cafe.
We arrived November 4 and walked into Zihuatanejo. Loved this town. It is a real Mexican community with real people and stores that cater to the locals as well as tourists. Nice atmosphere and definitely a go-to place. The beach is right by town and we stopped for a beer and chips in a restaurant with a lovely interior garden. Took photos and if either of us could figure out how to drop a photo into this blog directly from our cameras, we would do so! Did not bother to go to Ixtapa which is only a 50 cent bus ride away as Barb had been there before and Lynne´s theory is that one big American resort is like another and you cannot tell where in the world you are when you are in one!
We recommend this place for a winter vacation.
ACAPULCO
Next stop, next day, was Acapulco....eugh! 2,000,000 people, 3,000,000 cars and all on the road at once! Big plans to double the population in the next decade or so and many very expensive vacation homes built and planned.
We went to TEHUACALCO RUINS - a wonderful tour. The Mexican government decided to fund the archeological dig in 2002 and it opened to the public in 2008. It was a 1.5 hour ride each way. The scenery was lovely and over a brand new toll highway. We climbed to 1500 metres and it was a good thing we were in a small van as no bus could navigate the turns into the ruins.
The ruins total 65 acres but only 10% has been excavated. We saw their sacred ball court, two ritual pyramids and the plaza where the ordinary people congregated. The guide showed us glyphs carved into a large rock which were the Mayan calendar based on the moon. Barb climbed to the very top and then discovered she had to go down sideways! The steps are narrow because you go up and down sidways as it not allowed to face either forward or backward from the Gods. This tour was marked average but it was strenuous and several people were not able to climb the 75 stairs at the entry. Well worth the time and effort.
HUATULCO (pronounced watelco)
November 6 and we docked right at the most beautiful beach!. We walked around on our own and took a $2 taxi ride up into the town. It was very clean with a nice park in the centre. Checked out a couple of hotels at $20 night and up - monthly rates negotiable - and decided that the Canada Hotel by the beach looked pretty good to us!
We had breakfast of beer and nachos at 9 am under a palapa on the beach and followed up with $1 foot massage. Barb actually went into the ocean and the water was wonderful - she says! This resort is being developed with the ecology in mind and looks like it will be another go-to place for a winter break.
Next stop Guatamala and we will post whenever we can find an internet cafe.
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
CABO SAN LUCAS
When the missionaries first discovered Cabo, the local residents were unimpressed...they did not want to wear clothes and they did not want to be monagamous!
If local traditions had survived, Cabo would be more interesting than it is today. It is nothing but hotels, resorts, timeshares, condos, bars and pharmacies whose prime inventory seems to be vanilla and viagara.
If local traditions had survived, Cabo would be more interesting than it is today. It is nothing but hotels, resorts, timeshares, condos, bars and pharmacies whose prime inventory seems to be vanilla and viagara.
BOARDING THE VEENDAM
We boarded the Holland America Veendam with minimum fuss except for the usual 90 minute lineup!
Our portside cabin is roomy, has a large window and boasts a 4 piece bathroom. The bed and pillows are fantastic. The storage is perfect for 2 women. We are aft on deck 5 and the location is good.
We finally got assigned seating and are at a table for 10 with only 7 guests all of whom are staying on this cruise until we get to Rio. The portions are generous so we are walking up and down stairs. Barb has joined Pilates and Lynne has joined the library.
We met quite a few present and former Edmontonians...who would have thought!
We are late posting to our blog because the ship´s internet was broken and could not be repaired until Cabo San Lucas. Then, although we had signed up, we discovered there was no Word on the internet terminals so we are using land based internet cafes. The money we are saving on ship´s internet rates should treat us to a Wine Card (20 glasses of wine for $60...and nobody told us about that!)
Although, we cheated and brought 3 litres of wine on board with us!
We are starting to actually relax and sleep until 6am.
Our portside cabin is roomy, has a large window and boasts a 4 piece bathroom. The bed and pillows are fantastic. The storage is perfect for 2 women. We are aft on deck 5 and the location is good.
We finally got assigned seating and are at a table for 10 with only 7 guests all of whom are staying on this cruise until we get to Rio. The portions are generous so we are walking up and down stairs. Barb has joined Pilates and Lynne has joined the library.
We met quite a few present and former Edmontonians...who would have thought!
We are late posting to our blog because the ship´s internet was broken and could not be repaired until Cabo San Lucas. Then, although we had signed up, we discovered there was no Word on the internet terminals so we are using land based internet cafes. The money we are saving on ship´s internet rates should treat us to a Wine Card (20 glasses of wine for $60...and nobody told us about that!)
Although, we cheated and brought 3 litres of wine on board with us!
We are starting to actually relax and sleep until 6am.
SAN DIEGO
Much to our surprise, the Pilot announced that it was 19 in San Diego but the wind was brisk! We arrived in layers of clothing (it was snowing on the drive to airport) which we did not discard for two days. It was amazing how cold we were until Friday! Finally warmed up Friday morning.
Barb found a cute hotel in Little Italy called the Porto Vista which allowed us to walk everywhere... Downtown, the sea walk, Seaport Village, etc. The hotel had a decent dining room with lovely view of the bay. She treated Lynne to The Lion King as a birthday present and the show was fantastic . The woman who designed the costumes received a Tony Award for them and did she deserve it!
Only took the public transit one day--to the famous San Diego Zoo where we took a double decker bus on a grand tour and rode the Skyfari. Both were fantastic!! Also saw Old Town--not bad - where we had a dreadful Mexican meal.
We had a wonderful Italian dinner in Little Italy and also discovered a Farmers´Market a block from our hotel on our departure day. There is nothing like strolling through a street market sampling the goodies!
Barb loves San Diego. So does Lynne.
Barb found a cute hotel in Little Italy called the Porto Vista which allowed us to walk everywhere... Downtown, the sea walk, Seaport Village, etc. The hotel had a decent dining room with lovely view of the bay. She treated Lynne to The Lion King as a birthday present and the show was fantastic . The woman who designed the costumes received a Tony Award for them and did she deserve it!
Only took the public transit one day--to the famous San Diego Zoo where we took a double decker bus on a grand tour and rode the Skyfari. Both were fantastic!! Also saw Old Town--not bad - where we had a dreadful Mexican meal.
We had a wonderful Italian dinner in Little Italy and also discovered a Farmers´Market a block from our hotel on our departure day. There is nothing like strolling through a street market sampling the goodies!
Barb loves San Diego. So does Lynne.
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