Tuesday, November 24, 2009

UNSEEN BY MILLIONS

We are really enjoying this cruise. There are many very nice people and we have been fortunate in meeting a great many of them. We have an entertaining dinner table ensemble and are surprised by how many Albertans and Canadians are on board for the full 35 days. As everyone knows, Canadians like value for our money!

Our entertainers are total unknowns to us but many are excellent and make a living on the cruise ship circuit. They come from Australia, UK, Europe, USA etc. and we have missed very few evening performances.

We must confess - we have yet to see the midnight sky! What is it about heading south of the equator that exhausts us by 9 pm?

We must admit that our knowledge of geography was abysmal!! Do look up a proper map of Chile and take a good look at the southern tip. We have been sailing through some very complicated scenery - fjiords, islands, narrow channels that are all part of Chile.

By the way, Punta Arenas is somewhat further south (they claim) than Ushuaia, Argentina where we are headed next and which everyone assums is the most southerly city in South America.

CHILE

COQUIMBO/LA SERENA

Wednesday, Nov. 18

After two days at sea we arrived at the first of 3 stops in Chile. We decided not to do an organized tour and took the local bus for $1 US each way to La Serena which is about 8 km away from the port. The bus driver was very helpful and made sure we knew which bus to take home. We had lots of help from non-English speakers.

La Serena is a popular holiday destination for Chileans.

We did not find our internet cafe or a salon for a pedicure and manicure, but did walk through a lovely park with a jazz band playing great music. There was the usual local market.

We are now into wearing warmer clothes as the temperature is dropping the farther south we go. Small cities, but clean. Coquimbo has these great winding sidewalks going up the hills.

We are struggling with our Spanish as few of the locals speak English, as it should be, as we are visiting them. Very surprised that the ship is not offering Spanish lessons and Barb´s books are still in her suitcase.

This is the point when we realized that the days were getting longer.

VALPARISO/SANTIAGO

Thursday, November 19

This was the off and on city for the cruise. The end for those that got on in San Diego and the start for the second part of our adventure for the ¨newbies¨. 600 people took the entire 35 day cruise!

Again, we decided not to do an oganized tour and grabbed a cab to the Plaza Sotomayor in the town centre. We walked around and discovered towering hills, a maze of winding streets and alleys, sloping staircases and funiculars. We took a funicular built in 1883 to the top of Concepcion, the historic centre which overlooked the city. What a view. We later discovered this is another UNESCO World Heritage Site.

There are 15 ascensors (funicular) connecting the shore with the hillside residential areas. Some are in very poor condition and American Express has provided a cash grant to help maintain them.

From there we realized the port was very close and decided to walk back. We desparately needed to walk as our great plans to eat less and walk more were not becoming a reality. The walk was around 40 minutes which was fine with us. When we got back to the ship we realized that if the railroad was not directly in front of the port we could have walked into town.

November 20 and a very rough day at sea. Barb actually had to take a gravol.

PUERTO MONTT

November 21

This is a large fishing port but we took a tour to two cities created by the German settlers which are situated on Lago Llanquihue (Lake Yang-kee-way). Puerto Varas..City of Roses and Frutillar..little black forest. It was quite cold but lovely and definitely tourist places. Beautiful hotels on the lake with wonderful restaurants and a casino. Many people come here for vacation. Actually, there is a growing internationa classical music competition in Frutillar with a large new music hall being built on the lake and blocking the view of all sorts of local people.

The tour said 4 hours but by the time we got off the ship, were tendered into port, boarded the bus, etc., etc., etc., we actually only had about 20 minutes in each city. That didn´t give us much time to really see much, but we enjoyed what we saw. We did have time for apple kuchen and coffee. We also picked up a bottle of the local liquor--Pisco Sour--which is not lasting as long as it should.

Pisco Sour is claimed as the national drink of Peru. Pisco Sour is claimed as the national drink of Chile. Peru and Chile fought a war in 1941 - do you think it was over Pisco Sour?

Nov. 22 and 23 - 2 days at sea cruising through Darwin´s Channell, the Chilean Fiords and early on the 24ths cruising up the Straight of Magellan into Punta Arenas, the Capital of Patagonia.

We headed up the the Amelia Glacier on Nov. 23. WOW, just like Alberta in the winter... snow, ice and sunshine only not quite as spectacular as our Rockies, but then what can compare to those peaks. This part of the cruise is the South American version of the Alaska Cruise.

Today we are on our own again strolling through PUNTA AREANAS. We finally got our manicure and pedicure, found the internet and when done, we are off to....you guessed it...eat.
Barb finally broke down and bought a lovely alpaca cardigan - the first time !

Having a great time. It is turning into a real education as one realizes the world is upside down.

Every once in a while we stumble on an english speaker but we are managing to communicate anyway.

Thursday, November 19, 2009

CALLO/LIMA

On November 14 we arrived in Callo but decided to stay on board ship until Sunday when we took the shuttle into Lima and into Miraflores. We took one look and knew we would be very happy here when we return in January.

The ride in gave us a chance to see a lot of the shore line. The shops were closed but on the way back we noticed a shopping centre in a town between the port and Lima which was open. Apparently, many shops open after church.

Callao was established in 1537 to transship items looted from the Inca and is still a major port.

We will post more info upon our return.

PERU

PUERTO SALAVERRY/TRUJILLO - Nvember 13

This was the resting place along the Spaniards route between Lima and Quito.

We took a terrific tour to several archaeological sites that they are just starting to promote. They started with a few thousand visiters per year and are now up to about 300,000 annually.

The first temples we saw were built by the Moche Indians were abandoned the site about 1300 AD before the Inca Empire. The Huacas del Sol is the largest preColumbian structure in the Americas and was the administrative headquarters. The Temples of the Moon and Sun are aged to around 600 BC. They are still digging and uncovering. It took 140 million mud bricks tol build the Temple of the Sun. Because of the location of the Temple of the Moon, the original coloured wall paintings, etc. are still intact. The temple is around 5 stories high.

We then took off to Chan Chan another fantastic UNESCO World Heritage Site and consists of 9 governors palaces and 35 intermediary complexes. This was a town of around 35,000 with the Palace being the centre of everything. They are still trying to uncover areas and in some rooms they have duplicated the scultures and are covering the originals to save them. This palace was built as a maze.

From there, we went..you guessed it....to eat. They took us to Huanchaco a beautiful seaside town known for surfing and where we had a fabulous buffet of fish, veggies, breads and local beer. The restaurant was beautiful, the view delightful, the food excellent.

The sea was rough at this time of year and the waves were terrific to see. Some of the fishermen still use their reed boats which they handmake themselves. They last around 2 or 3 months and then they are too waterlogged to use.

It was a wonderful day and warm enough to not need our jackets.

MANTA, ECUADOR

So, what do you think the temperature was in Ecuado...35C maybe...guess again. We landed in Manta on November 11 and found ourself in 16C temps. We were cold. It turns out that the average temperature in the coastal region of Ecuador is 20C all year round.

The Humbolt current touches against Ecuador and northern Peru which brings cooler temps and lots of fish. We vaguely remember this from school but that was so many decades ago that we do not care to go that far back.

We were unpleasantly surprised to find the ship failed to commemorate November 11 rememberance day as there were many veterans from Canada, Britain, Australia and the USA on board. They tried to make up for it the next day but after the fact is never timely.

We took a tour here and found out that Panama Hats originated in Ecuador and because they were sold to the Panama Canal engineers they became known as Panama Hats. If we were not off and on a 3 month jaunt, we would have purchased one each.

On the way to the hat market the bus got stopped by a religious procession and he backedthe bus up on a steep hill. Great drivers here.

Ecuador is very poor but they are much better off than most of Central America. They are workingvery hard at trying to develop environmentally sensitive industries besides fishing and flowers which they ship all over the world. One is vegetable ivory from Tagua pronounced Towa. This is from the same plant as tequilla but a different variety. They dry the flower pods for 2 months and then slice it into discs from which they make buttons and sell to the Chinese. They also carve from it such things as small birds, animals, jewellery etc.

On our way back to the ship, we spotted many monuments to the tuna and our favourite was a large scuplure in the middle of a traffic circle which Barb dubbed ODE TO A TUNA

There was a tour to Quito, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but it was cancelled due to the plane requiring servicing. How on earth do you not service a chartered plane.....

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

CENTRAL AMERICA

The Bridge from where we were to where we are going.

We left Mexico and headed into rough waters because of the winds coming into the Pacific Ocean from the Caribbean side.

Prior to landing on Saturday, Nov. 7 in PUERTO QUETZAL, GUATEMALA we had planned to do independent touring. However, after hearing that the 3 central american countries we were headed to were working ports, we signed up for a tour to ANTIGUA, a World Heritage Site established by the Spaniards in 1570. The city of Antigua is wonderfully preserved with many excellent restaurants (Lynne satisfied her urge to taste Mole.)

Guatemala obtained independence from Mexico in 1823 and in 1906 the United Fruit Company established the first banana plantations. In 1952, the government distributed private land to landless peasants. In 1992, Guatemala President, Rigoberta Menchu was award the Nobel Peace Price for human rights works.

The country is obviously very poor but amazingly, houses in Antigua can sell for $1,000 /M2!

We went to a jade factory established by an American woman in the 1960´s when no one in the world thought there were jade deposits in the country...including the government! Didn´t she prove everyone wrong and does not hesitate to say so.

Our tour guide was born in Antigua spent some time in the USA but returned to her homeland at about 9 years of age. When she relearned English, she spoke with no accent! She was very knowlegable and we enjoyed her very much.

CORINTO, NICARAGUA was our next port of call. This part of central america was inhabited by the Niquirano people, influenced by the Aztecs, and were unified in small clan-based groups. Columbus made a brief visit to the Moskito Coast in 1502. The conquistadors subjegated the local people a few decades later. The Amerindians were enslaved and the Spanish built a grand colonial city at Leon.

We signed up for a tour which turned out to be NOT what we thought. While disappointed in the tour, the tour guide was passionate about his country which is the poorest of them all.

PUNTARENAS, COSTA RICA was our last central american stop. We were supposed to go to PUERTO CALDERA but were rerouted to Puntarenas. What a beautiful country! It is so obviously doing much better than the others that we asked the tour guide why. She said that when they obtained independence, their first president was a teacher and not a military dictator and that made all the difference. We were again fortunate with our wonderful tour guide whose English was teriffic and pride in country was evident. We stopped at a wonderful factory in Sarchi that produces painted oxcarts. The company dates back to 1903 and provides a distinctive indigineous industry. They ship these carts, in sizes from patio planters and bars to fidge magnets.

In 1502 Christopher Columbus anchors, in 1506 Spain began to colonize and 1821, Costa Rica gained its independence. The first president was elected in 1824 and he established fair courts, expanded education and coffee plantations. In 1890, he made a deal with the United Fruit Company to build a railroad and in exchange gave them a 99 years lease on the land bordering the rail lines to grow bananas.

VOLCANOES. There is a lot of volcanic activity throughout central america and from time to time it has devestated these countries. It takes a lot of time to rebuild after these disasters. Nevertheless, they do.

We had a wonderful Neptune Ceremony yesterday for passing the equator. The crew put on a fabulous ¨Kiss the Fish¨performance and the Lido deck was absoluted crowded with passengers. Some dedicated souls played bridge and refused to come on deck...what sour pusses!

We are looking forward to our next ports of call and will fill you in as we find Internet access.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

ADIOS MEXICO

ZIHUATANEJO-IXTAPA

We arrived November 4 and walked into Zihuatanejo. Loved this town. It is a real Mexican community with real people and stores that cater to the locals as well as tourists. Nice atmosphere and definitely a go-to place. The beach is right by town and we stopped for a beer and chips in a restaurant with a lovely interior garden. Took photos and if either of us could figure out how to drop a photo into this blog directly from our cameras, we would do so! Did not bother to go to Ixtapa which is only a 50 cent bus ride away as Barb had been there before and Lynne´s theory is that one big American resort is like another and you cannot tell where in the world you are when you are in one!

We recommend this place for a winter vacation.

ACAPULCO

Next stop, next day, was Acapulco....eugh! 2,000,000 people, 3,000,000 cars and all on the road at once! Big plans to double the population in the next decade or so and many very expensive vacation homes built and planned.

We went to TEHUACALCO RUINS - a wonderful tour. The Mexican government decided to fund the archeological dig in 2002 and it opened to the public in 2008. It was a 1.5 hour ride each way. The scenery was lovely and over a brand new toll highway. We climbed to 1500 metres and it was a good thing we were in a small van as no bus could navigate the turns into the ruins.

The ruins total 65 acres but only 10% has been excavated. We saw their sacred ball court, two ritual pyramids and the plaza where the ordinary people congregated. The guide showed us glyphs carved into a large rock which were the Mayan calendar based on the moon. Barb climbed to the very top and then discovered she had to go down sideways! The steps are narrow because you go up and down sidways as it not allowed to face either forward or backward from the Gods. This tour was marked average but it was strenuous and several people were not able to climb the 75 stairs at the entry. Well worth the time and effort.

HUATULCO (pronounced watelco)

November 6 and we docked right at the most beautiful beach!. We walked around on our own and took a $2 taxi ride up into the town. It was very clean with a nice park in the centre. Checked out a couple of hotels at $20 night and up - monthly rates negotiable - and decided that the Canada Hotel by the beach looked pretty good to us!

We had breakfast of beer and nachos at 9 am under a palapa on the beach and followed up with $1 foot massage. Barb actually went into the ocean and the water was wonderful - she says! This resort is being developed with the ecology in mind and looks like it will be another go-to place for a winter break.

Next stop Guatamala and we will post whenever we can find an internet cafe.

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

CABO SAN LUCAS

When the missionaries first discovered Cabo, the local residents were unimpressed...they did not want to wear clothes and they did not want to be monagamous!

If local traditions had survived, Cabo would be more interesting than it is today. It is nothing but hotels, resorts, timeshares, condos, bars and pharmacies whose prime inventory seems to be vanilla and viagara.

BOARDING THE VEENDAM

We boarded the Holland America Veendam with minimum fuss except for the usual 90 minute lineup!

Our portside cabin is roomy, has a large window and boasts a 4 piece bathroom. The bed and pillows are fantastic. The storage is perfect for 2 women. We are aft on deck 5 and the location is good.

We finally got assigned seating and are at a table for 10 with only 7 guests all of whom are staying on this cruise until we get to Rio. The portions are generous so we are walking up and down stairs. Barb has joined Pilates and Lynne has joined the library.

We met quite a few present and former Edmontonians...who would have thought!

We are late posting to our blog because the ship´s internet was broken and could not be repaired until Cabo San Lucas. Then, although we had signed up, we discovered there was no Word on the internet terminals so we are using land based internet cafes. The money we are saving on ship´s internet rates should treat us to a Wine Card (20 glasses of wine for $60...and nobody told us about that!)

Although, we cheated and brought 3 litres of wine on board with us!

We are starting to actually relax and sleep until 6am.

SAN DIEGO

Much to our surprise, the Pilot announced that it was 19 in San Diego but the wind was brisk! We arrived in layers of clothing (it was snowing on the drive to airport) which we did not discard for two days. It was amazing how cold we were until Friday! Finally warmed up Friday morning.

Barb found a cute hotel in Little Italy called the Porto Vista which allowed us to walk everywhere... Downtown, the sea walk, Seaport Village, etc. The hotel had a decent dining room with lovely view of the bay. She treated Lynne to The Lion King as a birthday present and the show was fantastic . The woman who designed the costumes received a Tony Award for them and did she deserve it!

Only took the public transit one day--to the famous San Diego Zoo where we took a double decker bus on a grand tour and rode the Skyfari. Both were fantastic!! Also saw Old Town--not bad - where we had a dreadful Mexican meal.

We had a wonderful Italian dinner in Little Italy and also discovered a Farmers´Market a block from our hotel on our departure day. There is nothing like strolling through a street market sampling the goodies!

Barb loves San Diego. So does Lynne.